Originally Posted by dkly007
I've did read from one source a long while back that not all the manufacturers did have their own individual events in GT5P.
I'll try to dig up the source for you but it might take some time.
Also could I ask, in S Class, the 700 racing point league where you run "Tuned" Vehicles, what was the first car that you used to clear the events?
I went to buy a Mines BNR34 Skyline GTR and I haven't quite found a setup that'll let me beat the GT Concept Ford GT40 LM race car in I think it's event S7 racing around Fuji Speedway.
Do you think you can offer me any suggestions as to what I should dial in/dial out.
At the moment I run it with extra weight from stock to get it down from 703 to 700 racing points. I have TC turned off and a slightly rear braking bias 5:6 Front to Rear. I've dialed in a little bit more negative camber in the front and havent touched any gear ratios.
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I believe I started off in the Tuned Viper but discovered that it and the Tuned Vette aren't nearly as quick around a track as the GT40 LM race car, so I sold the Viper and bought the GT40 LM, as I just didn't want to spend the time trying to dial in the other cars perfectly. In my experience with GT5, your best bet in most cases is to go for extremely light weight and then add power back in. Fuji is a bit challenging with that setup sometimes, as reduced power = reduced top end, but the lighter your car, the better it corners (duh, I know hehe).
I've been doing the following to most of my cars:
Drop ride height to the minimum to lower CoG and improve cornering speeds. Increase Spring stiffness settings to between 6 and 9 depending on the car and whether or not it's mid-rear-engined (if so I usually soften the rear compared to the front to allow a bit more grip and predictability in the handling.) I also increase damper strength by a few notches to between 4 and 6, usually leaving a gap of at least 2 clicks between spring and damper settings, again usually a bit softer on the rear with mid-engined cars. I increase toe-in by about 0.1 to 0.2 at the front and usually don't mess with the back. Depending on which wheels are being driven, I will increase camber at the front/back. I usually do a bit more at the front than the back...a couple of degrees is more than enough here (and more than I usually put in) IMO. I also increase the brake settings to 9 at the front and rear in most cases unless I find that the car is not turning in or turning in too hard under the brakes. I usually bump up the steering lock to 45 degrees as well and turn all assists off (except for ABS which I usually leave set at 1). I also try and make the gear ratios a bit closer together as well and in general I drop the weight down to the very minimum and then bump power around until I find the appropriate Performance Point number.
Hope that helps! Also...beware the GT40 LM and Ford GT...trailing throttle snap oversteer is fuuuuuun!!
...and thanks for looking into the manufacturer race thing...it irks me that they'd put something in the game and then not activate it...kind of weird...